Hi everyone,
I have had a busy few days since I last blogged. The 10-14 year old intensive course ended at the Michael Palin Centre – it was hard to say goodbye to the parents and kids, harder than I thought it was going to be! Emma, one of the kids in the course, said to me, “Promise you won’t forget about me, Lisa!” It was weird to think that I will probably never see these families again despite the fact that over the last 2 weeks, I’ve learned so much about them.
The course was such a personal experience for these families, learning about ways to support each child’s communication skills to increase his/her confidence and ability to communicate. The kids were hilarious and the parents very welcoming of me. I took a bunch of pictures of everyone and have created a set that is linked here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nedc/sets/72157606414084603/ It includes pics of each child, his or her parents, and some of the charts they created while working on various aspects of coping with their stuttering (they call it stammering here).
The intensive course for the teens started today. They will be here for 2 weeks like the 10-14 year olds were, but their parents come only one day vs. every day as with the younger kids. There are 4 speech therapy students who are assisting with the group too; one is from University College London but the other 3 are from a university in Edinburgh, Scotland (pronounced Edinboro). Anna, one of the students, has an incredibly heavy Scottish accent – today I was asking her about whether they have to go to other spots in the UK for their clinical placements and she said, “Nay, we uze-u-ah-leee steey near Edinboro and don’t hafta go aweee” = “No, we usually stay near Edinburgh and don’t have to go away.”I would love to tape some of her conversation because her accent is absolutely fun to listen to. I think in my next life, I’m going to be British so I can have a cool accent and use all kinds of cool expressions like chuffed, minxy, and knickers (the word for underpants).
The weather is warming up here in London – it’s about 30 degrees Celsius here today, which is about 80 or so. I know that doesn’t sound warm, but considering that very few places have air conditioning (including the clinic), I am DYING. Thank you Jesus that my hotel room has a/c or I’d be one unhappy camper! I looked up the conversion ratio to see if I could figure out how to know what temp in C = what temp in F but it involves a relatively complicated formula. Those of you that know me know that math is out so instead I found some kid website where you enter the temperature in one window and it converts it for you. If it gets above 24-25 C here, (mid 70s), the Brits think it’s a heatwave. Actually, for them, it is.
Besides the weather, the big news stories the past week or so have been (1) about the Madelyn McCann case and how the British police bungled the investigation, and (2) the “canoe” couple who faked the husband’s death to collect about $500,000 and moved to Panama. They even told their adult sons that dad had died. They were sentenced to 15 years in prison last week.
Speaking of news, the British LOVE newspapers. They are everywhere. There are a couple of free papers you can get in the mornings when you are getting on the Tube, and a couple of other free papers that you can pick up on your way home. Then there are all the tabloids (red tops, they’re called) and the bone fide newspapers (e.g., The Times) you can buy. They are printed so that you can open them like a magazine rather than the American version of folding in half horizontally. I couldn’t quite figure this out when I first noticed it, but I am now thinking it probably has something to do with public transportation. Since so many people ride either the Tube or buses here, I think it’s easier to read, fold, and manage a newspaper that’s set up like a magazine.
In the free papers and tabloids, they refer to people in their stories by their first names rather than Mr. or Mrs. This is kind of surprising to me, given the British likelihood to be super polite.
Nothing too new on the knife crimes front. Some of the Members of Parliament have talked about enacting laws to enforce knife control but now that the crimes seem to be happening less often than when I first got here, you don’t hear as much about this type of legislation.
I had an interesting experience last Thursday afternoon. There is a small set of townhouses across the parking lot from the clinic. They are “council estates,” meaning the local housing authority owns them. They’re the nicest public housing I’ve ever seen – every day when I walk past, I think, “This would be a cool place to live, I wonder how much these places cost.” Well, in order to be eligible to live there, you have to have some sort of chronic health condition or disability that makes it difficult for you to own your own house.
Anyway, when we went to lunch last Thursday, a funeral for one of the residents was taking place. Being the hillbilly that I am, I thought about running back upstairs to get my camera but then decided that would probably be the ultimate in tacky (even though we all already know that I am tacky enough to take pictures of pictures… LOL).
Why take pictures of a funeral? Because what I saw is particular to the East End of London (the area where the clinic is located). For traditional East End funerals, the morticians supply not only limos to transport the family to the church or cemetery for the service, but they also use a glass-enclosed horse drawn hearse.
One of the people who works at the clinic explained the ritual to me. When someone dies, the morticians come to pick up the body from the home or hospital, etc. Anyone who sends flowers to the family sends them to the house, not the mortuary or church. Either the night before the funeral or the morning of, the morticians bring the casket to the house where the dead person is ‘laid out’ prior to the funeral service.
On the day of the funeral, this beautiful wooden and glass hearse is brought to the house, pulled by two large black horses with very shiny harnesses and huge black plumes on top of their bridles. It’s driven by a guy in a black riding costume in a coat with long tails, a long whip, and a top hat. The hearse is pulled up in front of the house and the casket is loaded but the door is kept open.
Then, the morticians pull the limos up behind the hearse and proceed to empty the house of all the floral arrangements and put them on the roof, hood, and trunk of the limos so that each car is covered on the outside with flowers. They use bungee cords to fasten them down but they are careful to arrange the flowers in such a way that they coordinate in both colors and in height etc. so you don’t notice any of the cords or anything.
Once the cars are loaded with the flowers, the pallbearers remove the casket from the hearse and it pulls forward approximately 100 yards. The immediate family lines up behind the pallbearers/casket and follow it as the pallbearers walk it forward to the hearse, put it inside, and close the door. The family then returns to the limos and gets in, then the whole procession follows the horses and hearse to the church or cemetery.
It was beautiful, and absolutely silent. You could have heard a pin drop and there were at least 100 people in this small parking lot who were part of the funeral procession. I asked why the casket was loaded, then unloaded and reloaded and the person telling me about this ritual said that it was a symbolic leftover from the old days when the bodies laid out at home were carried out the front door etc. and this was just to symbolize a similar occurrence.
There would be something very comforting, I think, in knowing that when you die this is exactly the procedure that would take place on the day of the funeral, and as I said, it was beautiful and quite moving. I’m really glad I got to see it. The horses were amazing – again, very patient and quiet. I’m convinced that British pets have the best manners of any I’ve ever met.
Last Thursday night (6/24) I went to see the Hadrian exhibit at the British Museum. The pics from this exhibition are linked here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nedc/sets/72157606397462206/(btw, I LOVE that you can take pictures in most of the museums here!). Note the uncanny resemblance between Hadrian’s profile as a young man and that of ELVIS. Maybe Elvis never left the building? Maybe he’s been around 2000 years?
One interesting factoid about all these sculptures of Hadrian – when archeologists dig up some statue that could be him, one of the first features they look for is creases in his earlobes. Evidently, Hadrian was known for his extremely curly hair, his creased earlobes, and his remarkable resemblance to Elvis (just kidding about the Elvis part). An even more random factoid: if you have a crease in your earlobes, it’s an indicator that you are more susceptible to coronary artery disease. Who knew?
There are two things that amazed me about the whole Hadrian business. First, the wall he built to separate the Roman part of Britain from the northern tribes still exists. I thought it was cool that in certain parts of Nebraska you can still see the wagon wheel ruts from the pioneers crossing the prairie on their way west. That was only 160 years ago or so. Hadrian’s Wall is almost 2000 years old. That’s almost inconceivable.
The other amazing thing to me shows my ignorance regarding ancient history. In AD 70, the Romans took control of Jerusalem and were relatively hard on the Jews. However, when Hadrian came to power, the Jews had a leader who was fighting to take back control of the city. Hadrian squelched this by sending his troops to kill over 500,000 of the Jews. The ones that survived, believed to be about 1000, fled to caves in the Judean desert. To further punish the Jews, Hadrian then gave all their land to what was then Syria and Palestine. The conflict we see today in that region of the world began 2000 years ago, with Hadrian’s actions as emperor of Rome. Amazing.
Oh, one more interesting fact about Hadrian: he had a gay lover named Antoinus. In Roman times, it was acceptable to have both male and female lovers whether you were straight or gay, and Hadrian was married. However, he was with his pal Antoinus pretty much 24/7 and there were lots of drawings, sculptures, and ceremonial plates etc. that were made in A’s likeness. When A died on a boat trip down the Nile, Hadrian was devastated and tried to start a cult of people who worshipped Antoinus. This must have been quite a deal back then, because a good part of the exhibition was dedicated to their relationship and the artwork that came from it.
After I was done going through the exhibition, I checked out the Africa galleries at the museum. Different from the rest of the building, the Africa galleries showed primarily contemporary pieces – artwork from the last 100 years with some earlier items but not much. I found this very interesting, knowing that the British had colonized a good share of the African continent for a long time but didn’t see the need to plunder it the way they did with say, Egypt, Greece, or India. I had planned to also see the Asian galleries but by the time I was done finding out all about Hadrian and seeing the interesting pieces from Africa, I was museum-ed out and decided to head home.
I spent Friday night trying to de-intensify from the intensive course, and trying to cool down. It was quite hot on Friday too and by the time we finished our session notes from the day (each child gets session logs in his/her clinic file), walked to the Tube, and rode an extremely hot train home with extremely smelly people (me included), I was toast. I curled up in my air conditioned room here at the Rhodes Hotel and literally chilled out.
Saturday was another day of sightseeing but that’s another blog entry in the next day or so – this one has been long enough!
Random observations for this entry relate mostly to the concept of time. Most British seem to be very punctual and there are lots of clocks everywhere. Church bells also ring the time so it’s hard to NOT know what time it is. Words used to describe time:
-- First, you never say 8:30 or 8:15 as eight-thirty or eight-fifteen. You say “half-past” or “quarter past.”
-- Second, it’s also acceptable to say “half 8.”
-- You can talk about something you’re doing a week from Wednesday by saying, “On Wednesday week, I’m going to be visiting the National Gallery.” The only other time I’ve heard a future date like this is when I’ve been in Memphis. Random location association, right?
-- A two-week period is called a “fortnight.” The families spent a fortnight at the clinic learning about stammering. I’ve heard this term before but always in some historical fiction novel so it was surprising to me to hear it used in modern day conversation. I wonder about the origin of that word.
I leave for home Saturday week. Although I’m so excited and happy to be going home to Lindsey, Ned, Kaitlyn, Zoey, and all my friends, I am going to miss London very much. I love it here and again am so grateful to be having this experience. It’s brilliant!
All right, then!
Love,
Lisa
10-14 Intensive pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nedc/sets/72157606414084603/








