
Pictures from the V&A: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nedc/sets/72157606695875245/
Pictures from Oxford: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nedc/sets/72157606695953505/
Hi there,
Ugh, as time has gone on I’ve gotten worse and worse about blogging. Sorry about that!
Friday August 1 I visited the Victoria & Albert Museum (the V&A, as the British call it) here in London. It specializes in sculpture, pottery, textiles… basically anything artistic that you can touch or might use in every day life in your home.
The weird thing is, I almost missed going to the museum. I’d read on the website that it was open until 10 pm on Friday nights, and that there was an entrance below-ground from the South Kensington tube stop. So, I got off at South Kensington and walked to where the entrance was supposed to be… and it was closed. Uh oh. I debated about whether I should go above ground or whether I might have misread the times (as you know, this would not be surprising given my numerous intellectual failings since being here, ha). I decided to go upstairs and investigate. The first entrance I came to: Closed. I found another that had some staff near the door, so I asked if the museum was still open and if so, where could I get in? I had to go around the block to the main entrance, but am so glad I didn’t miss this one.
I have to say… This is my museum; these are my exhibits. I don’t know that I’ve ever been just so happy to be in a museum. Every gallery just gave me the best feeling inside for some reason. Don’t get me wrong, I love history etc. but I also love looking at things and imagining how they might look in my home or on my body! Yes, it’s true, one of the V&A’s major galleries is a clothing gallery, and they even have a SHOE display!!!! That’s what I’m talking about!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They just opened a fantastic jewelry gallery as well – examples of jewelry from ancient Greece and Rome until today. The tiaras and rings in this gallery were unbelievable.
True to the other public museums I’ve visited here, you could take pictures in the V&A. Except in the jewelry gallery. I didn’t know this and didn’t see any signs that photos weren’t allowed in this particular gallery but a guard let me know I was violating policy. Eek. If you go to flickr, you can see the few pics I was able to get in before I got spanked by the ring police.
The other great thing about the V&A was the gift shop. They had such a variety of options for gifts, and better than any of the other museum shops, they had a real range of prices so that you could find something for almost anyone here. I wish I’d spent more time at this museum but time just didn’t work out that way. Next time I’m in London, I will definitely go back.
I think I’ve mentioned in previous posts that Londoners love their newspapers. It’s so interesting to think that in the U.S., many papers are struggling to stay in business but here, they are everywhere. I’ve been analyzing the London Lite, my particular favorite free paper that I pick up on my way home from work to read on the train home. It’s pretty similar to most of the other free papers. Bottom line is, anything that is hard news (e.g., politics, domestic policy, etc.) is written up in very short stories – maybe 2 small paragraphs. However, anything that involves blood/crime/conspiracy, celebrities, television, or sports can be found in these free papers. No wonder I love it, it’s like a daily version of People magazine. The other thing I love about it is that it has a crossword, Sudoku (never do that because it involves numbers – we all know why I avoid that one), but my favorite puzzle – they show 2 pics of a celebrity side-by-side, one photo is untouched, the other retouched. But the retouch is very sneaky – very subtle changes – and you have to identify 5 things that have been altered from the original picture. I am actually going to miss doing this every afternoon after work. I know, I am not exactly an example of an intellectual powerhouse but hey, I love it anyway!
The other cool thing about these free papers is the variety of ads you see in them. I saw an ad for MI5 (British version of CIA) in the Lite; they are especially interested in recruiting people who speak a variety of languages found in North Africa to help fight terrorism. Another favorite ad is for Mr. Habib, a fortune teller who can give you advice on work, love, school exams, and break black magic. LOVE IT. If I don’t get tenure, I might go into business breaking other people’s black magic.
On Saturday August 2, Frances Cook had me back to her house (Finches, Hilltop Lane, Chinoor – love this address). I had written in my first or second blog what a lovely little village she lives in, but she told me this past weekend that it was a crap village and not that pretty. Maybe I’m just used to Woodville as a village or something because I think it’s pretty enough. Apparently, it was almost wiped out from bombing in World War II so a lot of the buildings were built hastily afterwards and therefore are ugly. I didn’t see these buildings.
Chinoor is in the Chiltern Hills, a very scenic area of Britain. I had to take Chiltern Railways from London’s Marylebone station to a little place called Princes Risborough, which is about 7 minutes from Frances’ house. She picked me up at the station and we then picked up her husband Kit and went to lunch at a beautiful pub called The Old Fisherman. On the way there, we passed through a village called Aylesbury, which has some of the oldest private homes in the country – some are from the 1100s and people still live in them (not the original homeowners, of course – now it’s mostly yuppies). Crazy factoid: Barry Gibb (yes, of the Bee Gees) lives in an ancient house in this village. We also went through a town called Thame. Remember that the river Thames in London is pronounced “Tims?” Well, Thame is pronounced…. Tame. Not Tim. Confusing.
The pub was lovely – on a “river” (really just a creek – none of their rivers here really are much bigger than a creek, in my opinion), and the food was great. We had a fun conversation – Kit was born to British parents who lived in India. When he was 8, they sent him to boarding school in England. At Christmas, they would rent a hotel room for him to stay in over the break because it was too far for him to go back to India to spend the holidays with them. So, here he was, a little boy living in a hotel during the holidays with no familiar adults around. Isn’t that wild? Kit has lived in India, Pakistan, and several other very interesting places – he’s brilliant, funny, and a really great guy so it was fun to be spending time with him.
From there, we drove to Oxford (actually, to a park-and-ride bus station because Oxford doesn’t really have much parking). I’d already been to Oxford for the conference, but hadn’t really done any sightseeing there to speak of. I’m so glad they took me back, because it’s such a beautiful city. It’s known as the City of Spires and rightly so. They are everywhere.
Oxford University isn’t really a single university; it’s 39 separate colleges. Some are ancient, others relatively modern. We took a walking tour through 4 of the colleges with a completely ADHD tour guide named Stewart. He took 2 cell phone calls while leading us around, couldn’t stand still when trying to explain something to us, often repeated himself 3-4 times, paid a couple of street musicians to play songs for the group (even though 1 was HORRIBLE – he actually paid this guy 2x – once walking in one direction, the other time when we walked back by, ugh). He was nuts. I was ready to force-feed him a pile of Ritalin about halfway through the tour.
The university at Oxford was established in 800 A.D. It’s not the oldest university in Europe (the Sorbonne in Paris is the oldest) but it is the oldest in the U.K. and the oldest English-speaking university in Europe.
The 39 colleges are where students live and are tutored. They don’t actually attend lectures within their college; instead, the college is the center of their social lives. They go to lectures a couple of times a week in common areas of Oxford, but the primary way they are educated is through meeting several times a week with their tutors.
Tutors (professors) are PhDs who are “fellows” of a particular college, and different colleges are known for specializing in a particular subject. Students attending one of the Oxford colleges do NOT take a variety of courses, say in English, Biology, History, Geography, etc. If you want to study history, that is ALL you study the entire time you are there. You are then tutored by one of the Fellows, meaning that you have several weekly, INDIVIDUAL meetings with the professor. If we did this at FSU, this means that I would only work with students who are interested in studying stuttering, and we would meet 1-on-1 several times a week to go through readings and information together. INTENSE. And the student wouldn’t study anything else but stuttering.
Each college has high walls and big wooden doors through which the students enter. In the early days of the university, townspeople hated the students and tutors and would rob or fight with them. There was a riot 700 or 800 years ago and 63 students were killed, thus, the need for the walls and a safe place for students to study. Each college is organized in a rectangular fashion, surrounding a quadrangle (courtyard) of grass inside. Each has a dining hall, bar, chapel, dorm rooms, and offices for the tutors. Most have their own libraries as well.
The main library for Oxford University is the Bodleian Library. It’s ancient and contains a copy of EVERY book ever published in Britain. You are not allowed to check books out of the Bodleian, but you can go there to read. If a member of the public wants to do any reading at the Bodleian, you have to apply and get special clearances – it’s not easy to get into for reading purposes. There’s another building, the Radcliffe Camera (it’s a round building and Stewart the ADHD guide said it’s called a “camera” because it’s circular… Me, Frances, and Kit are pretty sure that’s not true), that’s part of the library but the ONLY people allowed in the Camera are ‘readers’ (aka students and tutors). The public is never allowed inside the Camera.
It costs about $10,000 a year to go to Oxford, including room and board, if you are a resident of the U.K. Considering you get 1-on-1 tutoring from a PhD-level professor who is recognized as a world expert in his/her area of expertise, that’s a pretty good deal I think. American students have to pay about $30,000 just for tuition. There are about 20,000 students attending the 39 colleges.
In medieval times, students had to study all the subjects that Oxford offered: literature, medicine, law, English, archaeology etc. You couldn’t graduate until you passed all the subjects, so most graduates had to study for 13-15 years before they earned their degree. Today, students earn their degree in 3 years because they are only studying 1 subject.
The oldest college at Oxford that still has its original buildings is New College (how ironic is that?). New College’s buildings were erected in the 1200s and most are still intact. This is where the dining hall and cloisters scenes were filmed for the Harry Potter movies. We were able to go inside but weren’t allowed to take any pictures inside the dining hall or chapel.
After we’d finished the tour, we just walked around Oxford a bit. Oxford High Street looked like a street mall in America: a Gap, Burger King, McDonalds, etc. Kind of depressing when you think about such an ancient and cool city having all the crap chains on it’s main street.
On Sunday, Frances fixed roast lamb leg and fresh vegetables from her garden for lunch. Sunday lunch is a major family time in Britain – lots of people talk about what they do for Sunday lunch and which family members are there. Frances invited Sharon Millard (another clinician from the MPC) and her family for lunch and it was wonderful. Sharon’s kids are 8 and 5, and the 5-year-old girl Hannah is hysterical. We spent the afternoon mostly laughing at her. After lunch, I hopped back on the train and came back to London. Have to say, I LOVE train travel. Maybe I wouldn’t love it so much if I had to ride a train for 3 days or something, but I’ve been on trains for 10 hours (New York to Vermont) and 8 or 9 hours (Rome to Piacenza) and I’ve loved all of it. It’s just so much more relaxed and comfortable than flying.
As I mentioned, I had lamb at Frances’ house, and we also had lamb when I went to Willie’s house a few weeks ago. I have eaten more lamb in these two visits than I’ve ever eaten in my life and I have to say, it’s tasty! Speaking of food, I’ve decided that this would be the theme for this entry’s random observations:
-- Everywhere you go here, you can find lamb on the menu. And on the hillsides. I try not to associate the 2 or it makes me sad.
-- Indian food is EVERYWHERE. Might have something to do with the fact that there are Indians everywhere, which probably has something to do with the fact that India was one of Britain’s major territories or whatever you’d call them up until about 50 years ago or so. Curries are the thing. I had a mild chicken curry one night for dinner and it was pretty tasty. For some reason, I have an irrational food aversion (as in, no good reason for it especially considering I’ve never eaten it before) to anything that says “curry” but I decided to live it up and went with a mild version. I am really going out on a limb in oh so many ways on this trip, aren’t I?
-- You know I miss ice. Here, if you ask for a drink with ice, they give you about 3 cubes which melt in about 3 seconds because the diet coke, water, whatever is served at room temperature. I figured out that the reason there are no free refills is because in most places, when you ask for a diet coke, they open a can or bottle – not many fountain dispensers here. So, 2 main problems for me: no ice, and not a fountain drink. Oh I can’t wait to get home…
-- Breakfast sandwiches are called “buttys.” I have no idea why they are called buttys, but if you go to Burger King to get something for breakfast, your choices are several varieties of butty. I wonder if this has something to do with butter being a major condiment here? You can get butter on any sandwich, and actually probably DO get butter on your sandwich unless you specifically ask for it to be left off. The selection of Burger King buttys include bacon/egg butty, a sausage butty which is not a sausage patty but instead a big-ass sausage like a kielbasa all curled around on your bun. Not very appealing-looking, and then when you think “Hm, this is quite a weird looking butty” you sort of talk yourself out of eating it.
-- They also have fast food stands that sell “pastys.” A pasty, from what I can tell, is kind of like a combination pot pie/hot pocket. It’s pie crust wrapped around something like steak and kidney, or some version of lamb and vegetables. They’re not very liquid-y inside like a pot pie would be, so you can easily get them for “take away” (British term for “to go”). I don’t think they look very appetizing but I’m probably wrong about this because it involves pie crust and Lord knows I love pie crust.
-- When serving dinner, the British put the dinner plates in the oven first to heat them. The ovens I’ve seen in homes tend to be bigger than ours and have at least 4 separate compartments. This lets them cook dinner at one temperature in one compartment, then heat plates at another temp in another compartment.
-- Remember when I wrote that breakfast includes baked beans? One of the places I stop for diet coke in the morning offers the following for breakfast: baked beans and melted cheese on toast. Ok, sorry, but that sounds like someone gave BACK their breakfast onto a piece of toast. YUCK.
All right, then!
Love,
Lisa
Pictures from the V&A: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nedc/sets/72157606695875245/
Pictures from Oxford: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nedc/sets/72157606695953505/
Pictures from Oxford: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nedc/sets/72157606695953505/




